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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.